Ok, this post may be a bit “deep” (sorry for the pun), but I’ve been researching chicken litter management. For the past couple of years, our chickens were either housed in an Eglu (with a pull-out shelf for dropping removal), or in a barn stall, where we could shovel dirt and bedding in and out as necessary for sanitary control. However, now that we’ve got the new coop (see New Coop), I’ve been investigating the “deep litter” management method.
What Is It?
The “deep litter” technique originated in Ohio in the 1940’s, and was an important development in poultry management because it reportedly dramatically reduced poultry disease and the labor necessary to keep chickens. It introduced a sustainable method of managing chicken litter in the coop, and many flock owners adopted it. However, as small flocks disappeared from the backyard, the practice was somewhat lost, and was only continued by the large commercial poultry growers.
Basically, the premise is that you start with a 4” layer of pine shavings (or other highly absorbent bedding material), throw in chicken scratch daily so your chickens help aerate the shavings, and let nature compost the litter in the chicken coop. Just as with a garden compost pile, there is a brown “pine shavings” and green “chicken droppings” element that need to be managed. When the proportion of green to brown gets too large, additional pine shavings are added to the mix. Over time, the litter gets deeper, and eventually; some needs to be removed. What does get removed makes good compost.
Benefits
According to the original proponents of the deep litter method – Kennard and Chamberlin (published in 1949), “old built-up litter is drier, more absorbent, and less obnoxious than fresh litter after a few days’ use. Often overlooked is the fact that nature’s chemical and biological processes have converted built-up litter into more sanitary, less obnoxious, residual compost-like material which is preferable to fresh litter”. Studies on deep litter conducted at the Ohio Experiment Station in the 1940’s also concluded that deep litter was beneficial to chicken health and in the control of coccidiosis.
In the original method, hydrated lime was added to the mix at the rate of about ten pounds per 100 square feet, and reportedly kept the litter more friable. While investigating this method, I found that lots of small flock keepers today have rediscovered it, but are also adding diatomaceous earth to help with parasite control. Many report that they continue to let the litter build, replacing it and cleaning the coop only once yearly, in the spring. A concern mentioned with this method is the buildup of ammonia, if you can smell ammonia, it’s hazardous to the chickens and ventilation in the coop is not adequate. 
Usage
Unfortunately, I don’t have a neighbor I can consult about this method, but based on what I can discern, this doesn’t constitute cruelty to our chickens and we’re giving it a try. We put down about 4” of pine shavings, added a sprinkling of diatomaceous earth (only food grade should be used), and put the chickens in the coop on July 7th (see Chicks In Coop). It’s been 3 weeks and things seem to be going well (see Chicken Cam to view coop interior). Fortunately, the coop has three large windows in the front and a ventilation hatch across the back, so I don’t expect ventilation will be an issue.
I understand the reducing labor part, but I’d like to know why this method is credited with reducing poultry disease and increasing chicken health. It seems that there should be more science. I probably just haven’t found it yet; so if anyone knows where there’s additional information, let me know. I’m also curious about practices in other cultures and countries.
Sandy Rongish says
I read that the DE should NOT be used in deep litter as it kills the good things you are trying to establish and its really bad for the bugs in the garden.
Lesa says
Hi Sandy, what is your source for DE not being good for the deep litter method – this may be true but we’ve not seemed to have had much problem using it. I thought the beneficial things that were being established were on the microbial level and therefore too small for DE to impact. Also, the top of our deep litter gets scraped off and put in the compost pile periodically, our compost piles typically age for several year before getting to the garden (and also include lots of goat bedding), and after adding this compost to our once compacted clay beds for several years, they are now teaming with worms, insects, etc. It seems to be working for us, but I’d love to read more science on the topic 🙂
Gerry says
Diatoms, what diatomaceous earth is composed of, are microscopic, and therefore can do their thing to damage microorganisms and decomposers that are vital/beneficial to the breakdown of wastes and the composting process. Diatoms are the silica (?) skeletons of ancient microscopic organisms. These skeletons are very cool looking but have many sharp edges and are abrasive. They damage, puncture and cut small organisms, from microscopic up to insects, parasites and pests. A little bit probably won’t interfere with the composting process but I wouldn’t add it to my litter. I would limit its use to just their dust bath (dirt, sand, ashes and some dte), and maybe using a bit in their nest boxes.
Debbie S. Sheegog says
I am glad that you wrote this here! It is totally true. I only today rediscovered her great site as we are restoring a 100-yr. old chicken coop and saw your reply. I wanted to support your information being right about the diatomaceous earth, and it’s commonly misunderstood by people everywhere. It DOES does destroy any or all insects, spiders, butterflies on contact.
This is what I have learned from every intelligent, expert with degrees or not, persons and their resources back them up. I have read about many subjects around organic gardening and maintaining a safe wildlife refuge on our small farm over the past years.
Many gardeners and people wanting to protect certain plants and kill specific bugs thinking incorrectly that the stuff is not dangerous to ALL insects. This includes hundreds of hundreds of spiders and beneficial insects. I have learned through a close friend whose horticulture degree is from N.C.S.U., who encourages my inquires and ongoing learning as she does w/ her own landscaping clients, as well. I have learned a lot while studying Monarch Butterflies, their native milkweed plants and how there is a natural balance and clearly anything sprayed, spread, or used otherwise in the area of their food source- milkweed- will affect what nature will do on its’ own. Even soapy water can destroy their eggs, caterpillars, and plain water still must be used w/ caution and only when their is an infestation of the dreaded aphids and a few other invasive bugs but in time they are taken care of by other species. Thanks for this!
Lesa says
I need to update this blog post because after researching this more thoroughly and talking with my Vet friend, I would agree that it would be best to omit the DE.
Kate says
Here’s the reasoning behind disease control, etc.
http://www.plamondon.com/faq_deep_litter.html
PS, NICE house, my ducks are jealous
Lesa says
Kate, thanks for the link – great info there on the deep litter method! The house is nice – you shouldn’t have shown the ducks 🙂
barb allen says
What I read about the deep litter method was that – just as in compost – there is a build-up of micro-organisms of various kinds in the litter, over time, that are actually very beneficial to the chickens living with them. They found in studies done back then that chickens were much healthier because of this natural relationship with these organisms.
hanna Mccown says
Works like vaccinations do. Small amount ingested produces immunity or near immunity. We have been using deep litter one year now and have not had a problem with ammonia. It is really important to keep dampness away. We had rain in the coop fr a backward storm so I turned the wet litter over onto dry and treated the floor with diatomaceous earth and new dry litter. It dried very quickly. Hope this helps.