Note: You can find the 2015 version of this here.
It’s time to start thinking about the garden and starting seedlings; so I’ve created our annual seed starting and planting schedule again (see below) to keep us on track. It helps me keep focused on buying seeds, starting transplants, getting supplies, and making sure the garden beds are prepared on time.
I start with my schedule from the previous year (see Making 2013′s Seed Starting & Planting Schedule), copy it to a new spreadsheet tab, consult my notes from last year’s garden, and then work up the new plan. I’ve included a downloadable template (2014 Seed Starting & Planting Template) if anyone wants to start with my basic Excel spreadsheet and modify it for your planting zone. I’ve included the number of weeks to start seeds before setting outside (column 2) and the number of weeks before or after the last spring frost date for transplanting to the garden (column 3) to make it easier for creating schedules.
2014 Spring Seed Starting & Planting Schedule
Making Your Own Seed Starting and Planting Schedule
To make a schedule for your garden, just take the Excel spreadsheet and adjust the “Last Spring Frost” column to reflect the week of the last spring frost (orange column or week of May 4 in my schedule) for your location. Next, identify the appropriate first planting (FP) date for each vegetable. For example, since peas are very cold tolerant, column 3 identifies they can be put out 6 – 8 weeks before the last spring frost. So, in my schedule, peas can be put out the week of March 16 – March 30, six to eight weeks ahead of my week of May 4 last spring frost date.
Once you’ve got your first planting dates, you can establish the dates for starting seedlings indoors (SI) for those vegetables that you intend to transplant. So, using peas again, column 2 says they should be started indoors 3 – 4 weeks before setting out. Based on that, I backed up three and four weeks and identified that peas should be started indoors the weeks of February 16 or 23. For those vegetables that are directly sown outdoors, only the first planting dates need to be established – like the radishes in my schedule.
Now, I like to know approximately when production will start (#) for each vegetable. To do this, find the days-to-maturity number for each variety (should be on the seed packet), divide by seven for weeks, and move forward that many weeks on the schedule to identify when your plants will start producing. So, using my pea example again, my earliest are identified as 52 days-to-maturity which means about 8 weeks. Counting 8 weeks forward from my February 23 seeding date puts me at April 20 for the earliest production.
Once you’ve identified when production will start for each vegetable, then indicate about how long it will continue based on the first planting. Using peas again, once the peas start producing, they should continue for a couple of weeks, so I show that by indicating pea production the weeks of April 20 through May 11. For vegetables that will continue to produce until frost, indicate with “# until frost —>” as shown for chard, beans, etc.
Do the above for each vegetable you’re growing and you’ve got a handy schedule for planting your garden, and if you keep notes and tweak it each year, it will only get better.
This year, I’m again being aggressive on our seed starting and planting schedule; based on last year’s experience and the fact that the USDA has now revised our Zone to 6A. I want to get things out to the garden as soon as possible, and to really improve production, I’m also starting to really pay attention to faster maturing varieties – they can drastically improve when production actually starts.
That’s the great thing about taking the time to create a schedule like this; it can be adjusted from year-to-year, so you can get better at timing things. Need to get busy organizing supplies soon, it’ll be time to start transplants in no time!